Saturday, August 28, 2004
I've never been able to successfully sleep on a plane ride, and this one is no different. I open the window to let in the sun to help me adjust to the new time zone, and switch over my watch to the local time to help stymie jet lag as much as possible. As we come into Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris, I crane my neck looking to see if I can see any recognizable landmarks, but no Arc du Triumphe or Eiffel Tower are to be seen, thought I do manage to see what I think was the Seine. The landing comes hard, harder than most I've experienced on a plane as large as this, which causes a few exclamations from other passengers as we touch down, though otherwise the flight had been completely smooth and without incident.
The airport itself is striking, with the definite intention to impress. From the outside it there are a number of architectural elements which look impressive, though it is the spidery steel arches supporting an extensive glass ceiling that is most impressive. It lets in the light and makes the whole structure seem airy and evanescent, though it is hard to forget that earlier in the year part of this deliberate showpiece of French architecture collapsed under its own weight.
The airport is teeming with people, and I notice several heavily armed guards near one of the entrances, casually talking to each other. I thought about taking a picture - from a discrete distance -- but decide that that might not be a good idea. I take a quick look through an extensive magazine shop, and in particular gawk at the vast selection available - all in French of course. Everything from starlets with their boobs falling out on the covers in one section, to the inevitable (and adjacent) fashion section, car magazines, editions of The Economist entirely in French, stacks of newspapers, car and gadget mags, history and science publications, and comic books. The French publishing industry is very healthy, going by what I see around me. I pause at an Asterix book, and think about getting one to read to Vanessa, but realize that my own French is not yet up to the task, and that an English edition - were it available - would be a better bet in the long run. I also walk into a toy shop, and realize that very little of what was there - various Barbies, toy cars and planes, portable games, etc - wasn't so different from what I could find at home. "Made in China" rather than "Made in France" seemed to be the rule.
Charles de Gaulle Airport - Departures
It's a smaller Airbus this time, with no TV screen set into the seat in front of me. Instead I turn on my Sony minidisk player and slip in a music disc at random. Turns out to be the one that starts out with the Strangler's "Nice in Nice" - couldn't be a more appropriate choice.
Land in Nice, and manage to pick up my bags without any fuss. Am a bit annoyed that my prominent Red Hat baggage tag has managed to fall off of my luggage case, and make a mental note to ask them for a replacement. I find a change machine and convert a 10 Euro note into coinage so that I can make a phone call.
But there's no need of this as yet, since I've got a multi-hour wait ahead of me. Coincidentally, today turns out to be the 60th anniversary of the Allied liberation of Nice, and there are prominent automated advertising signs postering this fact, switched every 30 seconds or so with a slinky model advertising some random French perfume. Make a mental note to pick up a book that looks into this aspect of WWII, since I don't know much about the liberation of the southerly, non-Normandy section of France, which I think was part of Vichy.
I end up wandering through the airport, and pick up a few cheesy old postcards for friends, but cannot find stamps for them anywhere. Have been well fed (and wined) on the flight over, so am not hungry. I take a look at the phone and discover that they are credit or phone card only - there is no slot for taking change. I also discover after a couple of attempts that my transatlantic phone number for calling the chateau does not easily translate into something I can call locally, but am at a loss to know which numbers need to be subtracted (other than the obvious leading "011") or new ones to be added.
So I find a seat and wait. And wait. And wait some more. Do some people-watching, looking at the incredibly thin and svelte never-ending gaggle of fashionably tanned females flow by, mysterious behind their dark sunglasses. I manage to stifle coughing from the smoky cigarette infused atmosphere within the building. Welcome to Europe. I start reading a Scientific American article about Einstein-ian physics, and realize that it is not helping in my struggle to stay alert and awake.
I begin to get slightly panicky around 3:30pm, as Joseph must have arrived by now in order to drop off his girlfriend. I ask two board-looking tourist advisors about the phone number again, and they add a couple of extra area code numbers that I wouldn't have known about. I try the phone again, but am ultimately stymied by some sort of automated error message in French that I cannot understand in the slightest. Am beginning to think seriously about the prospect of sleeping off the rest of the afternoon in a nearby hotel when I see Josef's friendly face appear from around a corner. Turns out he had been hanging out in Terminal One, which is for international flights, and I had been hanging around in Terminal Two, which is for domestic flights, like the one I had just come on from Paris. I had thought about trekking over to the other terminal, but thought it best to stay in one place in case we ended up missing each other. In the end I finally emerge from the smoky interior and make my way to his car in the parking lot, and we begin our hour+ journey from Nice to Ramatuelle.
I don't usually end up having much in the way of talkative conversations with my Father-in-Law, but this time I manage to get him talking about some of his recent trips around Europe and North Africa, including tours of Egypt, Greece and Italy. He tells me that the only way to properly see Egypt is by a floating cruise down the Nile, and tells me of his fascination with the once-buried Roman city of Pompeii, and urges me to go there with the family one day. The scenery rushing past on these twisting streets is breathtaking, and much more green and lush-looking than when I last visited in the winter. I'm not normally car-sick, but my stomach does begin to churn a bit at all of the hard turns in the road, and I can't help but wish that more ancient Romans had come to this part of France to lay down their classically straight roadways.
The Pool at Chateau Volterra, Overlooking the Mediterranean
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